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Into Thin Air: A Personal Account Of The Mt. Everest Disaster

Average rating: 4/5

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Into Thin Air: A Personal Account Of The Mt. Everest Disaster

by Jon Krakauer

Knopf Doubleday Publishing Group | April 15, 1999 | Trade Paperback

National Bestseller 

A bank of clouds was assembling on the not-so-distant horizon, but journalist-mountaineer Jon Krakauer, standing on the summit of Mt. Everest, saw nothing that "suggested that a murderous storm was bearing down." He was wrong. The storm, which claimed five lives and left countless more--including Krakauer''s--in guilt-ridden disarray, would also provide the impetus for Into Thin Air, Krakauer''s epic account of the May 1996 disaster.

By writing Into Thin Air, Krakauer may have hoped to exorcise some of his own demons and lay to rest some of the painful questions that still surround the event. He takes great pains to provide a balanced picture of the people and events he witnessed and gives due credit to the tireless and dedicated Sherpas. He also avoids blasting easy targets such as Sandy Pittman, the wealthy socialite who brought an espresso maker along on the expedition. Krakauer''s highly personal inquiry into the catastrophe provides a great deal of insight into what went wrong. But for Krakauer himself, further interviews and investigations only lead him to the conclusion that his perceived failures were directly responsible for a fellow climber''s death. Clearly, Krakauer remains haunted by the disaster, and although he relates a number of incidents in which he acted selflessly and even heroically, he seems unable to view those instances objectively. In the end, despite his evenhanded and even generous assessment of others'' actions, he reserves a full measure of vitriol for himself.

This updated trade paperback edition of Into Thin Air includes an extensive new postscript that sheds fascinating light on the acrimonious debate that flared between Krakauer and Everest guide Anatoli Boukreev in the wake of the tragedy.  "I have no doubt that Boukreev''s intentions were good on summit day," writes Krakauer in the postscript, dated August 1999. "What disturbs me, though, was Boukreev''s refusal to acknowledge the possibility that he made even a single poor decision. Never did he indicate that perhaps it wasn''t the best choice to climb without gas or go down ahead of his clients." As usual, Krakauer supports his points with dogged research and a good dose of humility. But rather than continue the heated discourse that has raged since Into Thin Air''s denouncement of guide Boukreev, Krakauer''s tone is conciliatory; he points most of his criticism at G. Weston De Walt, who coauthored The Climb, Boukreev''s version of events. And in a touching conclusion, Krakauer recounts his last conversation with the late Boukreev, in which the two weathered climbers agreed to disagree about certain points. Krakauer had great hopes to patch things up with Boukreev, but the Russian later died in an avalanche on another Himalayan peak, Annapurna I.

In 1999, Krakauer received an Academy Award in Literature from the American Academy of Arts and Letters--a prestigious prize intended "to honor writers of exceptional accomplishment."  According to the Academy''s citation, "Krakauer combines the tenacity and courage of the finest tradition of investigative journalism with the stylish subtlety and profound insight of the born writer.  His account of an ascent of Mount Everest has led to a general reevaluation of climbing and of the commercialization of what was once a romantic, solitary sport; while his account of the life and death of Christopher McCandless, who died of starvation after challenging the Alaskan wilderness, delves even more deeply and disturbingly into the fascination of nature and the devastating effects of its lure on a young and curious mind."

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Reviews

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      helpful to you?

    Rating: 3/5

    Nature's Wrath!

    David Cavaco

    3 months ago

    True life account of climbers trapped on Mount Everest and their quest for survival. I was hoping for more information on the formation of the Himalaya Mountain range and more insights into each of the affected climbers. Yes, the story is real and dramatic but I found it quite distant and cold requiring more of a human touch. Still not a bad read.

    This reviewer also recommends:
    • Was this review
      helpful to you?

    Rating: 5/5

    You Must Read This!!

    Stacey S

    3 months ago

    I have wanted to read this personal account of the Mount Everest disaster for some years now, and I have finally done so.

    This is a very vivid memoir, and if you as a reader ever had a romanticized notion of what climbing Everest would be like, Krakauer puts them to bed.

    Beyond his initial excitement at the prospect of acheiving his life-long goal of summiting Everest, he does not glamorize this climb in any way. Instead, he takes his reader back to that mountain with him. Nothing is left to the imagination, you smell every smell, feel every ache, gasp for every breathe, feel every degree below zero, and he will wring you out emotionally as he takes you to the brink of madness, it is raw, the way only a survivor could tell it, but you will not be able to put this book down. The fact that there were any survivors at all is a testimony to the human survival instinct, and the unbelievably selfless acts of heroism juxpositioned against the unimaginable decisions that had to be made, are a testimony to the human spirit.

    Although this book is 15 years old, it will definitely be making my Top Ten Best Reads for 2011, and though it is a tough read emotionally, I can't recommend it highly enough.

    • Was this review
      helpful to you?

    Rating: 5/5

    Fabulous and a Must Read

    Colleen Easter

    • Indigo Employee
    • Top Book Reviewer

    3 years ago

    This is one of those books that will stay with you forever. I listened to the audio book which was read by the author. To him telling you this story in his own voice - this true story- was amazing. It is the story of trip to the top of Mount Everest. He was hired by Outdoor Magazine to write a story about the tours to the top of Everest - how there was a lot of debate about these "tour groups" as opposed to real climbers. You know there is disaster coming and as you learn to like and enjoy these people you are so worried as to who is going to die. The IMAX Everest movie is being taped during this same season on Everest so if you have seen that movie you have seen some of the story. It was so moving and terrifying. Jon Krakauer wrote the article quickly after the horrible experience and it turns out some things were wrong. You can feel his regret through out this book as he tries to get the story right for the families of the other climbers. I couldn't stop listening to this book. I highly recommend this emotional fascinating read.

    • Was this review
      helpful to you?
    amanda

    Rating: 5/5

    The Top of the World

    amanda

    13 years ago

    I have always had a facination with Everest and this is probably the closest that I will ever get. This is a great book summarizing the details of a very tragic year on Everest. Krakaur (sp?) does a wonderful job of giving an unbiased view of the events and makes you feel sorry for what he went through, with his humble words on what he should/could have done to help, if it weren't for the weather and lack of oxygen. I have lent my copy to friends who are not even outdoor enthusiasts (I am one!) and they couldn't put it down. It is a real page turner and you won't be able to put it down. I recommend this book to anyone. Absolutely AMAZING! A book I will read over and over again!

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Details

From Our Editors

It's considered the ultimate climbing achievement. Every climber dreams of reaching the peak of the colossal Mt. Everest, often at any cost. In this personal account of one disastrous attempt to climb the Nepalese behemoth, author Jon Krakauer shares what it cost him and his climbing team. His New York Times best-selling novel Into Thin Air is this adventurer's third book and appears for the first time in trade paperback format.

From the Publisher

National Bestseller 

A bank of clouds was assembling on the not-so-distant horizon, but journalist-mountaineer Jon Krakauer, standing on the summit of Mt. Everest, saw nothing that "suggested that a murderous storm was bearing down." He was wrong. The storm, which claimed five lives and left countless more--including Krakauer''s--in guilt-ridden disarray, would also provide the impetus for Into Thin Air, Krakauer''s epic account of the May 1996 disaster.

By writing Into Thin Air, Krakauer may have hoped to exorcise some of his own demons and lay to rest some of the painful questions that still surround the event. He takes great pains to provide a balanced picture of the people and events he witnessed and gives due credit to the tireless and dedicated Sherpas. He also avoids blasting easy targets such as Sandy Pittman, the wealthy socialite who brought an espresso maker along on the expedition. Krakauer''s highly personal inquiry into the catastrophe provides a great deal of insight into what went wrong. But for Krakauer himself, further interviews and investigations only lead him to the conclusion that his perceived failures were directly responsible for a fellow climber''s death. Clearly, Krakauer remains haunted by the disaster, and although he relates a number of incidents in which he acted selflessly and even heroically, he seems unable to view those instances objectively. In the end, despite his evenhanded and even generous assessment of others'' actions, he reserves a full measure of vitriol for himself.

This updated trade paperback edition of Into Thin Air includes an extensive new postscript that sheds fascinating light on the acrimonious debate that flared between Krakauer and Everest guide Anatoli Boukreev in the wake of the tragedy.  "I have no doubt that Boukreev''s intentions were good on summit day," writes Krakauer in the postscript, dated August 1999. "What disturbs me, though, was Boukreev''s refusal to acknowledge the possibility that he made even a single poor decision. Never did he indicate that perhaps it wasn''t the best choice to climb without gas or go down ahead of his clients." As usual, Krakauer supports his points with dogged research and a good dose of humility. But rather than continue the heated discourse that has raged since Into Thin Air''s denouncement of guide Boukreev, Krakauer''s tone is conciliatory; he points most of his criticism at G. Weston De Walt, who coauthored The Climb, Boukreev''s version of events. And in a touching conclusion, Krakauer recounts his last conversation with the late Boukreev, in which the two weathered climbers agreed to disagree about certain points. Krakauer had great hopes to patch things up with Boukreev, but the Russian later died in an avalanche on another Himalayan peak, Annapurna I.

In 1999, Krakauer received an Academy Award in Literature from the American Academy of Arts and Letters--a prestigious prize intended "to honor writers of exceptional accomplishment."  According to the Academy''s citation, "Krakauer combines the tenacity and courage of the finest tradition of investigative journalism with the stylish subtlety and profound insight of the born writer.  His account of an ascent of Mount Everest has led to a general reevaluation of climbing and of the commercialization of what was once a romantic, solitary sport; while his account of the life and death of Christopher McCandless, who died of starvation after challenging the Alaskan wilderness, delves even more deeply and disturbingly into the fascination of nature and the devastating effects of its lure on a young and curious mind."

From the Jacket

"... he has produced a narrative that is both meticulously researched and deftly constructed. Unlike the expedition, his story rushes irresistibly forward. But perhaps Mr. Krakauer's greatest achievement is his evocation of the deadly storm, his ability to re-create its effects with a lucid and terrifying intimacy. --Alastair Scott, The New York Times Book Review

"This is a great book, among the best ever on mountaineering.  Gracefully and efficiently written, carefully researched, and actually lived by its narrator, it shares a similar theme with another sort of book, a novel called "The Great Gatsby." --The Washington Post                        

"Into Thin Air ranks among the great adventure books of all time." --The Wall Street Journal        
                                                                        
"Krakauer is an extremely gifted storyteller as well as a relentlessly honest and even-handed journalist, the story is riveting and wonderfully complex in its own right, and Krakauer makes one excellent decision after another about how to tell it.... To call the book an adventure saga seems not to recognize that it is also a deeply thoughtful and finely wrought philosophical examination of the self." --Elle                

"Hypnotic, rattling. . . .  Time collapses as, minute by minute, Krakauer rivetingly and movingly chronicles what ensued, much of which is near agony to read. . . .  A brilliantly told story that won't go begging when the year's literary honors are doled out." --Kirkus Reviews
                
"Though it comes from the genre named for what it isn't (nonfiction), this has the feel of literature: Krakauer is Ishmael, the narrator who lives to tell the story but is forever trapped within it....  Krakauer's reporting is steady but ferocious.  The clink of ice in a glass, a poem of winter snow, will never sound the same."        --Mirabella                        

"Into Thin Air is a remarkable work of reportage and self-examination. . . . And no book on the 1996 disaster is likely to consider so honestly the mistakes that killed his colleagues." --Newsday                                        

"A harrowing tale of the perils of high-altitude climbing, a story of bad luck and worse judgment and of heartbreaking heroism." --People

"In this movingly written book, Krakauer describes an experience of such bone-chilling horror as to persuade even the most fanatical alpinists to seek sanctuary at sea level." --Sports Illustrated

About the Author

Jon Krakauer is a part-time mountaineer and a full-time writer. He is a contributing editor at Outside magazine and writes for many national magazines and newspapers. He lives in Seattle, Washington.


From the Paperback edition.

Trade Paperback

368 Pages, 5.16 x 7.94 x 0.7 in

April 15, 1999

Knopf Doubleday Publishing Group

English


0385494785
9780385494786

From the Critics

"... he has produced a narrative that is both meticulously researched and deftly constructed. Unlike the expedition, his story rushes irresistibly forward. But perhaps Mr. Krakauer''s greatest achievement is his evocation of the deadly storm, his ability to re-create its effects with a lucid and terrifying intimacy." -Alastair Scott, The New York Times Book Review

"This is a great book, among the best ever on mountaineering.  Gracefully and efficiently written, carefully researched, and actually lived by its narrator, it shares a similar theme with another sort of book, a novel called "The Great Gatsby." -The Washington Post                        

"Into Thin Air ranks among the great adventure books of all time." -The Wall Street Journal        
                                                                        
"Krakauer is an extremely gifted storyteller as well as a relentlessly honest and even-handed journalist, the story is riveting and wonderfully complex in its own right, and Krakauer makes one excellent decision after another about how to tell it.... To call the book an adventure saga seems not to recognize that it is also a deeply thoughtful and finely wrought philosophical examination of the self." -Elle                

"Hypnotic, rattling.... Time collapses as, minute by minute, Krakauer rivetingly and movingly chronicles what ensued, much of which is near agony to read.... A brilliantly told story that won''t go begging when the year''s literary honors are doled out." -Kirkus Reviews
                
"Though it comes from the genre named for what it isn''t (nonfiction), this has the feel of literature: Krakauer is Ishmael, the narrator who lives to tell the story but is forever trapped within it.... Krakauer''s reporting is steady but ferocious.  The clink of ice in a glass, a poem of winter snow, will never sound the same." -Mirabella                        

"Into Thin Air is a remarkable work of reportage and self-examination.... And no book on the 1996 disaster is likely to consider so honestly the mistakes that killed his colleagues." -Newsday                                        

"A harrowing tale of the perils of high-altitude climbing, a story of bad luck and worse judgment and of heartbreaking heroism." -People

"In this movingly written book, Krakauer describes an experience of such bone-chilling horror as to persuade even the most fanatical alpinists to seek sanctuary at sea level." -Sports Illustrated

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